Tokyo's bustling food truck scene offers a variety of cuisines, but Fofo stands out for its unique focus: authentic flavors of Burkina Faso, a West African nation. Owned by Emile Ilboudo, Fofo is a vibrant truck painted in the national colors, a beacon for those seeking something new and delicious.
For many in Japan, Burkina Faso remains a mystery. Emile himself admits his knowledge of the country was limited before encountering footballer Wilfried Sanou in the J. League. But a deeper dive into Emile's story reveals a fascinating journey and a passion for sharing his heritage.
Before diving into his background, let's explore the food. Unsure what to order, Emile recommends benga, a simple yet comforting dish of brown rice and black-eyed beans. Topped with aromatic roast chicken and a fiery chili sauce, it offers a surprising familiarity – like a Japanese mamegohan with a kick. The beans provide a satisfying texture, the rice is earthy, and the chicken adds a juicy counterpoint. The chili sauce, applied cautiously, delivers a pleasant warmth.
"Burkina Faso cuisine relies heavily on beans," Emile explains, "and benga is a staple. It's a dish you'll find everywhere, from food stalls to home kitchens. For me, it's the taste of home, a reminder of my mother's cooking." He describes his childhood memories of sharing benga with his siblings, a dish both nourishing and free of artificial additives.
Emile's own story begins in 1959, when Burkina Faso was still a French colony. Witnessing his mother's culinary skills and captivated by the tall hats of French chefs, a young Emile dreamt of a life in the kitchen. Encouraged by his parents, he enrolled in a prestigious cooking school in neighboring Côte d'Ivoire at the age of 17.
This move, surprising to some in Japan, reflects the realities of Africa, where colonial borders often divided families and communities. Cross-border trade and family ties remain common.
Emile thrived in Abidjan, a vibrant metropolis that attracted people from across the region. Here, he found a passion for music, forming a band with other young people. Life was a celebration of youth and cultural exchange.
His dedication to cooking paid off. Earning top marks, Emile continued his culinary journey in Morocco and France, mastering French cuisine before graduating with honors. Back in Côte d'Ivoire, he worked as a chef at a hotel, eventually rising to cook for the president.
With the president's passing, Emile received offers to work abroad, and Japan, a country he knew only for its reliable motorcycles, piqued his interest. "I was familiar with Africa and Europe," he admits, "but Asia was a mystery."
Emile embraced the challenge, arriving in Japan in 1996. He worked as a chef at embassies representing Ivory Coast, Guinea, and finally, Burkina Faso. In 2004, he opened his own restaurant, Calabash, offering a taste of Africa in Tokyo.
Calabash's success fueled a new dream: a food truck. "There was a lack of awareness about Burkina Faso," Emile explains, "and a food truck seemed perfect. I could paint it in our national colors and bring it directly to the people."
Launched in 2014, Fofo, proudly painted by Emile himself, quickly gained a loyal following. The day I visited, the line stretched long, with Emile warmly chatting with his customers.
But Emile's passion extends beyond food. Inspired by his grandfather's emphasis on helping others, he donates a portion of his earnings back to Burkina Faso. His goal is to build schools for underprivileged children, a dream realized after two years of saving. Today, he works towards opening a second school.
Fofo, more than just a food truck, is a cultural ambassador. It has not only introduced Tokyoites to Burkina Faso's flavors but also allowed Emile to share his story and the spirit of his homeland. As children affectionately call him "Mister Burkina Faso," it's clear his mission is succeeding. And with every warm smile and delicious dish served, Emile continues to bridge the gap between Japan and this West African nation.